Nothing majorly specific happened during our travels. More so it was a series of small dramas, which I can fondly look back on. Rather than structure this as a diary I will consider 10 points that stand for a small drama or something that has stayed with me now the trip is over….
The Ferry
I really like travelling on boats. I have even been on cruises when I was younger as I guess my mum and dad wanted me to experience something I would remember, I really appreciate that gesture.
Anyway I enjoyed the ferry and it reminded me of the last time I was on a ferry, which I too really enjoyed. The white cliffs of Dover were strangely haunting and I often drifted off whilst trying to focus on individual waves for prolonged periods of time.
As we came into Dunkerque I stank of Calvin Klein as I had a bit of a ‘moment’ in the duty-free shop though the scent of over-priced eau de toilette did not obscure my vision. This was Dunkerque and there was not much to see.
Dogs
Despite the fact that in my life I have been the proud owner of a variety of dogs I do still possess a fear of the ones that freely roam the streets. The very dogs that make an assumption of you without a proper introduction and then act on it in a usually viscous manner.
Within half an hour of being in France I had a dog on my case. Prior to this I don’t believe I have ever cycled so fast and upon looking back I could barely see my travelling companion Craig. As he neared I realised he was laughing at me and was obviously unaware of me and my dog issues which I must admit were a little exaggerated here as the dog was behind a fence.
The only dog I came across that I managed to befriend features below. He had lost his voice and because of this I think he was slightly embarrassed. This embarrassment must have had some effect on his attitude as he was more understanding than most other dogs and accepted that I was just a fellow animal going about his business.
Anyway dogs came and dogs went but my fear remains.
Camping
Camping was never going to be great in a tent that wasn’t waterproof. It was also a one-man tent that had two men and all of their travel accessories in it. After the first night I woke up amongst a variety of puddles and despite saying ‘woke up’ I hardly slept. To make matters worse I realised we had pitched in somebody’s garden and the knock on effects of that were coming into fruition as normal life in Gistel, where we woke up, resumed.
As time went on the weather improved and my spooning technique was really the work of a champion. We camped in bushes mostly in order to dodge the alcoholics, students, combine harvesters and festival security staff that were always nearby.
In conclusion my £8 tent was a roof of sorts but I may invest a little more money into my next one.
Diet
With little money and our major food hit stops being petrol stations our diet whilst travelling was not exactly that which would be fit for a king. For Craig it was Brie and for me it was Emmental cheese most days mixed with a variety of breads or crackers.
When we did find the time to visit a restaurant we were pretty much hated. Judged as scumbags scraping the bottom of the money barrel to buy an omelette we didn’t really care so long as we got our food.
Shithead
I don’t believe I have ever played so many games of shithead in my life.
The bikes
As soon as we left Peckham I knew we looked like the amateur Charge cycling team on a training exercise. This does not embarrass me though as the bikes held up for the whole journey without a single puncture or problem until one night in Brussels when cycling around a festival site.
I must say the idea of buying a bike rack to hold my tent and sleeping bag was one of the best calls I could have done. I often felt for Craig and his bag full of Art supplies though knew he could take care of himself and I was doing my bit by letting him sleep in Hotel Robert Ian Hughes.
Cycling at night
At first this was damn scary but after some time it was apparent it was the most efficient way to travel. No traffic meant we could bomb it in the middle of the road for miles dodging numerous potholes, animals and the occasional late night farmer.
North Brussels
This may have been the scariest part of the journey, even scarier than all those damned dogs ‘out to get me’. To say North Brussels was intimidating would be an understatement and we cycled through it at lightening speed.
I could maybe compare the area as being a European Harlem but a bit sketchier. Weaving in and out of all walks of life it made for an education but one I would not care to relive.
The initial plan was to randomly camp somewhere in this area but this was just not going to happen. We headed south and set up on a bench for sometime before camping in a bush on a hill.
Ghent
Of all the places we went it was surprising that I found Ghent the most enjoyable. Bruges was a little too touristy for me and we needed more time in Brussels to fully appreciate it.
Ghent was kind of like an upcoming city with decent bars, shops and galleries etc to keep its residents entertained. I sensed a good vibe about the place and may well visit again some time in the future.
It’s a small thing but I was particularly pleased with the fact that in the toilets of the S.M.A.K. gallery Ed Templeton had done lots of little sketches on toilet roll holders and the like. I’m a huge fan of his work but unfortunately couldn’t spare €30 for his new book which is great.
Craig Barker
Obviously I have to mention something about my right hand man. We were there for each other through thick and thin and I believe he was the perfect candidate. I admit I had my worries when we both arrived in France with no map and little idea of which way was east. We did have intuition though and I am glad that when I lost focus Craig would be tuned into some sort back-up plan that would head us in the right direction.
Craig is a good person to be drunk with, hung-over with, lost with and found with. If he was not in a relationship I would have proposed to him on the first day but that’s life.
In conclusion I had a great time. I guess I really needed to just go away and switch off mentally and this was the perfect prescription. The future will hopefully hold many more similar trips now that I’ve got one under my belt. I admit I had concerns about how things would go but I realise that that kind of anticipation makes for a more exciting journey.
I’d like to finally say thank you to my legs for getting me through the journey. Although you might be a little bit white and skinny you did the job fine and I condone you for it.
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